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Two for the Road: Izaak Walton Inn and Belton Chalet
August 28, 2009
Editor@montanaliving.com
Under the shelter of gingham sun bonnets and covered wagons, pioneering homesteaders once traveled west to start a new life in Montana. Find a modern-day equivalent to such an adventure in two of Big Sky’s most historic lodgings: the Izaak Walton Inn and the Belton Chalet. Noted for their old-fashioned ambiance and Park-side location, these two beautiful accommodations promise to recreate the comfort, peace, and quiet only experienced by escaping twenty-first century hubbub. Swap horse-drawn transportation for locomotion, retire all cell-phones, lap-tops, and tv’s; Northwest Montana’s Izaak Walton Inn and the Belton Chalet let their guests slow down.
I decided to take the most classic means of transportation available for the weekend ahead, attempting to follow the Izaak Walton’s philosophy, “At the Inn, time stands still and lets you catch up,” and the Belton Chalet’s motto, “the way it was…still is,”. I gladly accepted the conductor’s hand as he helped me aboard the Empire Builder train on the way to Essex, the Izaak Walton Inn’s birthplace.
A pleasant hour-long train ride through farmland, over the Middle Fork River, and under glacier peaks covered in snow brought my companion and me to the quaint town of Essex, population thirty. Greeted by the Izaak Walton’s General Manager, John Collins, we loaded our luggage and were shuttled a quick three minutes from the train stop over to the Inn.
The history of the Izaak Walton dates back to 1939, when the Inn was used to provide room and board for the Great Northern Railroad workers. The Izaak Walton Inn is listed in the National Register of Historic Places by the United States Department of Interior in co-operation with the Montana Historical Society. Situated only fifty feet from the Burlington Northern Santa Fe rail yard, the Inn is passed by fifteen to thirty trains daily. Although the Inn describes itself as a “haven for rail fans,” inviting railroad enthusiasts to relish their passion at the annual Rail Fan Weekend, you do not have to be a “foamer” to enjoy the Izaak Walton’s charm.
The entire Inn features Great Northern Railroad memorabilia that compliments its historic value. Relaxing on the comfortable log-style furniture in the lobby, guests visit and play a casual game of cards around the large fireplace that serves as the focal point of the room. On the walls are black and white photos of trains, several Great Northern Railroad emblems, paintings of Glacier National Park’s impressive landscapes, and two mountain goat heads; magazines, photo books of eventful Izaak Walton weekends, and literature on activities to do at the Inn grace the rustic, wooden coffee tables. Other guests enjoy views of the railroad and some of the Izaak Walton’s 96 acres of forest land from the swinging benches on the front porch. Laughter emerges from the adjoining Dining Car restaurant, coupled with the smell of juicy buffalo burgers and huckleberry cobbler. As I absorb my first few moments at the Izaak Walton, I begin to see why it strives to “represent life at its best…SIMPLE!”
However, enjoying the simple life does not mean deprivation of activity. The Inn assures its guest the absence of “any of the city ‘extras,’” in return for the opportunity to enjoy quiet strolls, invigorating hikes, mountain-biking, horseback riding, cross-country skiing, ski lessons, snowshoeing, red jammer bus rides into glacier, and most importantly, peace. Perhaps the best part of the Izaak Walton is that it offers guest long lists of rejuvenating activities within an atmosphere that values doing absolutely nothing just as highly.
Each room at the Izaak Walton Inn is decorated differently, although all have at least one queen-size bed, a comfortable twin-sized futon, and a private bath. Deluxe and family-style rooms are also available. Across the railroad tracks guests will see four brightly-colored caboose cabins that provide the most unique lodging experience.
Chef Rich Kern, in his fourteenth year at the Izaak Walton, explained what he felt draws visitors to the Inn year after year. After all, more than twenty-five percent of the Inn’s guests are returning. Kern said, “I think it’s the quaintness of the place, I think there’s a certain nostalgia that’s really here. It’s that old-fashioned care that the staff wants to share with people who come here.” Most of all, Kern believes that “People are much more comfortable in an atmosphere where they’re taken care of as if it were home.”
A forty-minute train ride west of the Izaak Walton Inn brought us to the Belton Chalet, the first tourist destination in the West Glacier area. Purchased in 1997, the Chalet was in need of serious renovation as a result of harsh winters and changing landlords since its 1910 opening. Once I stepped onto the Belton grounds, it was not difficult to see why the Chalet was designated a National Historic Landmark in 2000. The Chalet is nestled among pine trees and wild flowers, with mountain views to be enjoyed from Adirondack chairs custom made by the Chalet’s owners. General Manager Christie Roberts said, “We pay attention to detail, you can figure that out by looking at our grounds. We keep it personal; that’s what we are.”
Lodging options at the Belton cater primarily to couples, but can also accommodate families. The spacious main lodge features standard rooms, rooms with private balconies, as well as deluxe and honeymoon suites. Simple white walls are set off by dark wood, while black and white photography makes for a classy, traditional feel. Each room contains a large queen bed, footed with a luxuriously soft blanket that is so wonderful it is sold in the gift store. The Belton frames its windows from the original Chalet with wispy, sheer curtains that open to reveal Glacier summits. Roberts explained that the Belton is “romantic and tries to keep that feel.” Special anniversary celebrations as well as honeymooning vacations are honored with fresh flowers and champagne. Autmn Amour is a special event weekend at the Chalet. Roberts said, “[It] is our romantic weekend done usually on the last weekend of the year. We put champagne in the rooms, the couples have breakfast in bed on the last day, [and] it’s a package deal. We book out completely.” Weddings, rehearsal dinners, and reunions may also find their place at this stunning mountain-side inn. For adventurous newlyweds or guests looking for a unique Belton experience, a large white teepee may be rented for overnight stays in the meadow.
Guests traveling with family may choose to stay in one of the Belton’s two private cottages, called the Lewis and the Clark, both of which sleep six comfortably. With three bedrooms each, a kitchenette, a small refrigerator, a large deck facing the mountains, and a fireplace, the Lewis and Clark cottages offer ultimate private relaxation.
In the last two years, the Belton has been open for business in the winter. The winter season offers an even quieter, more peaceful stay as mostly Montanans fill the reservation lists. The Belton does not put televisions, phones, or radios in any of their rooms, but do offer board games as well as horseshoes and badminton in the meadow behind the main lodge. Guests may even enjoy badminton or horseshoes in the Belton’s meadow, only a few minutes walk behind the main lodge.
The Amtrak stops daily only feet away from the Inn and the Belton provides guests with a free shuttle service to help move bags and weary travelers from the nearby station to the front desk. Naturally, as Roberts explained, “You have to be train friendly, of course.” The Belton Chalet’s close proximity to the railroad connects it to its rich history and to the character of its staff. With a staff of sixty individuals, it is notable that the small-town personality of the Belton Chalet remains intact. Every evening at eight o’clock the staff members working at the Belton’s gorgeous restored Taproom restaurant and bar have a tradition of dropping whatever it is they are doing to race out onto the Taproom deck and wave to the passing trains.
The Taproom restaurant is open every night from three to ten o’clock and offers an extensive menu that combines Montana classics with a gourmet touch. Hardwood floors, white tablecloths, and red and white striped fabric-covered chairs, as well as large windows and plenty of outdoor deck seating creates an appealing, romantic setting. The Belton’s Chef makes his own dressings that are especially refreshing over organic greens for the weary hiker. The Taproom’s long wine list and its waiting staff’s “no rush” attitude is the perfect atmosphere in which to enjoy a brilliant mountain sunset. The policy on reservations, which allows only guest to make them, acts as another reminder that the Belton Chalet keeps it personal. Roberts said, “We want to focus on people…[and] have them leave rejuvenated and happy; to feel 100% satisfied.
On the last day of our stay at the Belton Chalet, we enjoyed a peaceful meal on the Taproom deck of baked brie and huckleberry beer for starters, followed by a fresh green salad with red pepper gorgonzola dressing, crab-stuffed Wali with asparagus and mashed potatoes, washed down with a glass of pinot noir, and a huckleberry crisp for dessert. As the sun began to touch down on the mountains ahead, I reflected on my visits to two of Northern Montana’ most historical Inns. Perhaps it was the wine, or maybe it was the lingering taste of sugared huckleberries, but at that moment I vowed to never again stray from vacation destinations as quaint, delightful, and train-accessible as the Izaak Walton Inn and the Belton Chalet.
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