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Inside Ennis
October 04, 2008
By Amity K. Moore
“Thank God for Ennis,” fishing widows must declare. Because while their hubbies are wading the Madison, fly rods in hand, ladies can angle for the best price at area antiques stores, or snag a bite at one of several yummy restaurants. From April through October, Ennis is a shopping, dining and art oasis, located between a ghost town and acres upon acres of ranchland and fishing hotspots. But as one local joked, when winter arrives the “River Report” changes to the “Liver Report.” Seriously though, in the off-season, with only 70% of the town open, snowmobiling and Nordic skiing take over. (and, ahem, apparently the saloons too).
Where to eat:
The pinnacle of Ennis eating is Continental Divide (682-7600), where locals feeling flush and second-home homeowners delight in such dishes as “Tenderloin of wapiti” and sauteed sweetbreads, a restaurant tradition for 23 years. Owner/chef Eric Trapp says he added more seafood and game to the menu when he bought the restaurant four years ago. Superior taste and freshness touch not only the plate, but the atmosphere as well. Conversely, don’t let the through-the-bar location deter you from dining at Scotty’s Supper Club (682-5300), where gooey baked brie or meaty crab cakes served in a ramekin start the mouth watering. The entrée that couldn’t be removed for fear of local uprising: honey-breaded walleye with lemon scallion sauce.
The cocktail hour:
Longbranch Saloon (682-7370) is perhaps the only bar in the state where cussin’ and swearin’ ain’t so welcome. That’s right, too much bawdy language and you’re encouraged to get comfortable someplace else.
Where to sleep:
Several modest accommodations are available in and around town, but try the Ennis Homestead (682-4086), the area’s newest sleep-spot, for a week in a private cabin outfitted with custom bedding (including duvets), original artwork, western antiques and top-of-the line appliances. It’s situated on 2.5 acres of well-groomed lawns dotted with robust shade trees—land once homesteaded by Ennis’ founding family. And because it’s located only a block off the main drag, dining and shopping are within easy walking distance. Children aged 15 and older are welcome. Prices for a week’s stay begin at $1,500. Open May through October.
Where to shop:
Spend a lazy morning browsing the merchandise along Main Street, where ranching (a huge part of the community) has inspired clothing, novelties and home furnishings. Antiques also abound. At the Rusty Cowboy Gallery (682-5439) complex east of town, enjoy a latte and a look-see at Teri Freeman’s fun collection of used cowboy paraphernalia. Her truck, too, is worth a glance. Enjoy local art at the River Stone Gallery (682-5768), where Bern and Lexi Sundell’s acrylic paintings, watercolors and particularly fetching jewelry demonstrate their artistic versatility. Get equipped for fly-fishing at the Madison River Fishing Co. (682-4293), where they carry Montana’s own Simms, Winston Rod, Dan Bailey’s products. Montana Living’s favorite: The Blue Heron (682-7171) because a portion of its merchandise—vintage creels and fishing gear, and antique horse tack—reflects the traditions on which Ennis thrives. Plus it carries contemporary home furnishings and books.
What to do:
Ennis’ central location gives vacationers access to some wonderful recreational opportunities in the Lee Metcalf Wilderness, the Tobacco Root Mountains and Yellowstone National Park. Plus, it’s within minutes of Norris and Potosi hot springs, and the well-known ghost towns Virginia City and Nevada City. And the Bozeman Trail can be seen from U.S. Route 287 (not to be confused with State Route 287, which leads to Virginia City.) In town, borrow a pole from the public library (682-7244) and take kids fishing at Lion’s Park where they can catch huge rainbow trout, stocked by the Ennis National Fish Hatchery (682-4847)—another fun stop (you wouldn’t want to miss seeing albino fish!).
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