|
Great Drives: Havre's Best Kept Secret
August 01, 2010
By Kim Thielman-Ibes
To view the wonder and beauty of Montana, from its Indian heritage and checkerboard plains, to its early military history and mountainous autumn beauty, buckle up for this scenic drive that begins 10 miles south of Havre on Highway 234.
Pleasing views of farm and ranch homesteads roll by as you approach the foothills of the Bears Paw Mountains and the entrance to Beaver Creek Park—a mountain oasis in the middle of a wheat desert and one of the largest county parks in the nation. The horizon shortens during the drive through Beaver Creek Park. The Bear Paws (as they’re referred to locally) got their name from Native Americans because of their paw-like shape. They are remnants of a 50-million-year-old volcano. Except for the 10,000 acres comprising the park, the majority of the broad valleys, rugged mountains and peculiar shonkinite rock formations are privately owned. (Shonkinite is an igneous rock that displays grained dark brown mica, pink feldspar and pale green pyroxene.)
Each September, 28 ranchers run cattle through the park’s two-lane road. The money generated from their leases contributes to the park’s self-sufficiency—and the annual event makes for a true cattle drive adventure.
At the entrance to the park lies Lower Lake. Its clear, azure waters are a favorite for anglers—you can pick up fishing and camping permits at park headquarters, located at Camp Kiwanis about nine miles from the entrance (406-395-4565). Continuing south, the winding road follows the golden- and auburn-colored brambles that hug Beaver Creek—your guide through this one-mile wide, seventeen-mile long park.
Soon red-tinged rocks jut from cliff abutments above, and the rolling countryside fills with effusive fall color. Quaking aspen, cottonwood groves, box elder and buffalo berry explode in startling shades of red and yellow.
Seven miles from the park’s entrance, Beaver Creek flows into Bear Paw Lake, which quietly rests under Mount Reynolds. Nearby is one of the 100 spacious campsites outfitted with fire grates found within the park.
Two miles farther down the road, the Bear Paws’ ponderosa pine-covered summits peek from behind the increasingly abundant rock outcroppings on the surrounding hills.
About eleven miles from the park’s entrance, turn right onto Taylor Road. Here you leave Beaver Creek Park and enter the 108,015-acre Rocky Boy Reservation. Nearly 2,000 Chippewa and Cree Indians share in its ownership, running cattle, farming and operating Bear Paw Ski Bowl.
Turn right onto the gravel road; it rises up over Taylor Hill and quickly turns to pavement. Rocky Boy Agency, the tribal headquarters, is five miles east of this junction. The road seems to end in front of the school at the Rocky Boy Agency; turn right here. Continue northeastward on this road, circling Haystack Butte. Then at the Bonneau Dam junction, turn left.
The views on the reservation are some of the best on this road trip, offering a glimpse into the Native American lifestyle, while also showcasing America’s famous amber waves of grain. The drive east to Box Elder meanders through beautiful buttes and rolling hills; aspens and pine give way to Russian olive trees, which quickly yield to islands of flat-topped plateaus afloat on seas of golden wheat.
Once at the junction with Highway 87, turn north toward Havre. You’re in Jim Hill Country now—the land that supports the railroad. Indeed, a freight spur that stretches between Havre and Big Sandy runs parallel to the road.
Nineteen miles up the road, you’ll pass the remnants of Fort Assinniboine on your right, which was established in 1879 and became Montana’s military headquarters. Today several buildings house the Northern Agricultural Research Center. You can arrange a tour (before beginning your journey) through the H. Earl Clack Museum (406-265-4000).
From here, it’s only five miles back to Havre, whose residents work the prairie and play in the mountains—none of which is too far away.
If you were to keep heading south on Havre’s Fifth Avenue, within twenty minutes or so, you would find yourself in the foothills of the Bear Paw Mountains and at the front door of the best kept secret on the hi-line—Beaver Creek Park. Locals refer to this 10,000-acre community park as, “a little oasis in the middle of a wheat desert.” The park is a remote undiscovered gem. Its pristine environment, cozy campsites, and beautiful mountain ecosystem make for a truly enjoyable scenic afternoon.
Your journey begins on Highway 234 with pleasing views of farm and ranch homesteads set on rolling prairie hills with white painted fences. Within the ten-mile drive to Beaver Creek Park your horizons shorten and begin to take shape.
At the entrance of Beaver Creek Park lies the Lower Lake. Its waters are a clear deep blue and a favorite for fisherman. Continuing south, the winding road begins to follow the golden and auburn colored brambles that hug Beaver Creek—your guide through this one-mile wide, seventeen-mile long park. Soon red tinged rockery juts out from cliff abutments above and the rolling countryside literally fills up with effusive fall color. Quaking aspen, cottonwood groves, box elder and buffalo berry explode with startling shades of red and yellow.
During your fall drive keep a steady eye on the road as you can most likely count on finding yourself smack dab in the middle of a cattle drive.
Beaver Creek joins its second lake in the park seven miles later. Bear Paw Lake quietly rests under Mount Reynolds and is full of rainbow, brook and cutthroat trout. No motor boats are allowed on this beautiful little lake and it’s one of the hundred well-maintained campgrounds in the park. Each of these spacious sites is outfitted with a fire grate, most are equipped with outhouses and several are handicap accessible, many even have open air pavilions. The campsites are wonderful places to strike out on a hike or mountain bike ride.
A mile or so south is Camp Kiwanis and Park Headquarters (395-4565). From here to the south you begin to see the pine covered mountain tops of the Bear Paws peeking up from behind the increasingly prevalent rock faces on the hills.
Just minutes later you can sneak off onto a lovely rambling dirt road that leads you to a number of surprise spots, including Gravel Lake—this area is much prettier than it sounds. Here you can stroll across Beaver Creek on a charming arched bridge, which leads to a shingle-topped pavilion.
At the south end of Gravel Lake, you’ll turn right onto Taylor Road. This mile or two of gravel road rises up over Taylor Hill and then eventually down onto the Rocky Boy Reservation. The views on the reservation are some of the most wonderful in the Bear Paw Mountains. The road seems to end at Rocky Boy, turn right here heading north and at the Bonneau Dam junction take a left.
From here to Box Elder you’ll meander through beautiful buttes and rolling hills, aspens and pine give way to Russian Olive which quickly yield back to islands of flat topped plateaus and the sea of golden wheat fields.
At the junction of Highway 89 take a moment to look behind you and say good bye to the broad valleys and rugged mountains of Beaver Creek Park.
If you’re like me, in the twenty-three mile drive north on Highway 89 back to Havre, you’ll be wondering if you just spent the last two hours in a dream.
|
|
