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Favorite Drives: Montana's Quake Lake
August 27, 2008
By Ken W. Hall
Meandering past mountain lakes, spirited streams and the Madison River, Highway 287 may cause some of its passengers to reflect on the power of creation. The road, which travels through the heart of the Madison Valley and into a corner of Yellowstone National Park, features miles of mountains, trees, water and animals seemingly fit for no other place on the planet. Some folks would say it's heaven, with colors straight from the palette of the Creator. Others would say it shows the wrath of hell. Still another could argue that the line between heaven and hell is faint and all but imperceptible.
Begin the drive on the east edge of Ennis. Upon crossing the bridge that spans the Madison River, the imposing, yet serene Fan Mountain comes into view to the east. Part of the Madison Range, it stands proudly in the Lee Metcalf Wilderness and peaks at over 10,000 feet above sea level. In winter, the magnificent structure of rock and earth takes on a special aura as snow gently finds its way into the fissures of the fan. Here, too, the Madison River rambles through rich ranchland and past towering mountain ranges. It threads the lakes that comprise this area known as The Chain of Lakes together. During the next 40-plus miles, the river flows parallel to the road giving you stunning views of what Montana is known for; pristine waters against a backdrop of lowland plains and rugged mountaintops. Throughout the year (although spring and summer are the seasons in which fishers dot the river nearly every 50 yards), you can observe anglers wetting their lines.
Within this more than 40-mile stretch sits Cameron, a quaint settlement comprising mostly ranchers and farm folk. Many of the locals, as well as those who travel US 287, consider The Blue Moon Saloon a must-stop for food and liquid libations. It is here that one can immerse themselves in ambience of "the rural southwestern Montana". Music, food with a local flavor and and an occasional dance draw locals and wanna be locals alike. Just east of the town's outskirts is a taller neighbor of Fan Mountain: Sphinx Mountain which rises to 10,876 feet in elevation. It gives hikers and climbers their due, forcing summit-seekers to ply dirt, rock and sparse vegetation to reach the top.
Once past Sphinx, the valley narrows as the Madison Range gradually encroaches from the left and the Gravelly Range does so from the right. The road becomes a concrete and asphalt serpent ascending and molding itself to the contours of the increasingly rugged mountain terrain. For a glimpse at history, turn off to the right at the West Fork area of the Madison and head to the campground on the river. Here you will find the Hutchins Bridge. The bridge is the location of the first bridge across the Madison. You also will see on the near side of the bridge The Old Kirby Place, which is a charming, well-restored and maintained cluster of historical structures. Once a stop for the stage coaches venturing through the Madison Valley, it now serves as a guest facility for anglers and tourists.
From the West Fork area US 287 gently swings eastward, putting you closer to a posted wildlife viewing area near the first of the lakes Cliff and Wade. These lakes are part of the chain of lakes including Elk and Hidden which lie to the south. This chain of lakes was created by strong earth transformation much the same as Quake Lake. Strong ancient volcanic upheaval created these lakes which are connected under ground by aquefers. There is no visibel source of water such as streams or rivers that connect them. They derive their water primarily from seepage, snow melt and water runoff from rain. In the surrounding sage flatlands pronghorn antelope are often seen within easy view of US 287. With a turn to the right at the sign "Wildlife Viewing Area" the road becomes and heads toward the Madison River.The bridge which crosses the river was the bridge acrss the Madison in Ennis until it was moved to the current location in 2001. The dirt road begins a serpentine ascent upward. As you approach the crest of the rolling hillside aspen groves add structure to the sillouete of the apex of the ridge. In and around the groves deer are commonnly seen and a random elk or moose may also saunter into view. At the crest of the climb lie Cliff and Wade Lakes. Along the shores of Cliff and Wade are seasonal accommodations offering commune with nature, fishing access and hiking.
From the lakes and valley, US 287 climbs solemnly into the canyon region where the infamous and catastrophic earthquake occurred August 17, 1959 at 11:37 pm. The earth convulsed violently with a deafening crescendofor less than a minute resulting in a thunderous cascade of debris--30-50 million tons of dirt, stone and trees--that took the lives of 28 people and injured over a hundred who were in the Rock Creek Campground. The slide left debris stacked 250'-300' high and spread over 1/4 mile of river bed at the mouth of the canyon. The quake measured 7.1 on the Richter scale. The Visitor Information Center at Quake Lake is about a mile into the mouth of the canyon on the north side of US 287. The center offers detailed information about the quake, however in the Winter it is advisable to contact the center for hours of operation and for schedules of guided hikes of the area. The phone number for the center is 406-682-7620.
For a different view of Mother Nature's fury, look for the Campfire Lodge sign which is on the Madison about 3-4 miles beyond the Visitor's Center. Approximately a hundred yards into the entrance to the lodfe is a dirt road to the right. Follow it along the river past small islands covered with willows that are home to often seen moose. Views from this road show a different perspective of the carnage of the slide and its rising water. Structures in various stages of decay lie across the river.The quake violently lifted these buildings off foundations and thrust them some three or four miles up river. When rescue teams created an opening in the slide area. the structures of log, plank, and metal roof gently floated to rest amidst the sage bushes along the river's edge. To this day they remain as quiet sentinels to the traumatic events of that August night in 1959. As with most of the roads in the region, seasonal conditions may limit access. Hiking, skis or snow shoe may be modes of choice for those willing to challenge the elements for right of entry into this sacred domain.
Once back on US 287 the road makes a steep incline. At the summit Hebgen Lake explodes into view with a burst of splendor with Hebgen Dam on the right. The dam which was completed in 1915 was one of the major concerns when the slide struck. The greatest fear was that the dam would give way and flood the Madison Valley and its 1,500 residents. Hebgen Lake and its approximately 325,000 acre feet of water is summer home to hundreds who migrate from other realms of existence. Winter brings acres of accessible frozen lake surface for those seeking a year-round experience of mountain lake and forest shoreline.
As the shores of Hebgen meld into sage brush flats US 287 intersects US 191. Turn right toward West Yellowstone. During snowy winters bison can be seen foraging along the creeks and roads that cross the highway. On occasion herds of bison can be seen crossing the highway, thus bringing pause to travelers.
From West Yellowstone US 20 veers west toward Targee Pass, which rises to 7,072 feet above sea level. Generally the passes are clear throughout the year, but it is best to closely monitor the weather and road conditions since severe and sudden weather changes frequent the region.
Travel about nine miles on US 20 before turning right on Highway 80. After crossing Reynolds Pass with its elevation of 6,836 feet above sea level the road will reconnect you with US 287 in the Madison Valley.
Along this route there are miles like no other place on the planet. Rocks, trees, waters and animals seemingly reserved for this place imbue wonder and amazement. Loving and powerful intent placed each element exactly where it was designed one supporting the other while retaining an identity all its own. Some would say it is heaven. Some would venture that it shows the wrath of Hell.
Without doubt it is a place in time where life in its extremes is in the face of those who encounter the wonder and power of the Creation and its mystery.
It recalls an August night in 1959 when a mountain shivered with instant transformation.
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